Cuenca's position in the foothills makes it a city of layers. We climbed a long stairwell, past graffiti, and cafes, to the Plazoleta Cruz del Vado. The charming plaza is circled by museums, shops, multi-level houses, and craftsmen's studios. A prominent statue depicts Ecuador's version of a greasy pole contest and a large cross sits sheltered in a gazebo of sorts, providing protection to travelers. However, its real draw is a balcony offering panoramic views of the new city and the towering peaks of the Andes Mountains behind it. Our plans for staying in Cuenca were undetermined. We gazed out onto the red tile rooftops and allowed the city to make a case for itself.
Much like our old home, Pittsburgh, Cuenca has just over 300,000 residents, 3 rivers, and a surplus of bridges. Most of the similarities are what you would expect from any city of comparable size, and most of the differences are negligible. We can work on the language issue, and we're pretty okay with being taller than most people. Our best stories happen when we're off the map, and getting lost continues to be part of the fun. After a few months in Cuenca, we've created a list of some of the more notable differences between here and your average US city.
The old man sneered disapprovingly. He spit the words, "This is ridiculous," at me, kneeling on the floor, then claimed his boarding pass and stalked off. I'm a good packer. I've taken a nine-week road trip with just a large duffel bag. Gone away for long weekends armed with only what fit into my purse. So you can imagine my mortification as I desperately attempted to lose 12 pounds in the middle of the San Diego airport.
Due in large part to the cocktail renaissance of the last few years, shrubs have come screaming into the present from an era when the United States were but a gleam in the Founders' eyes. Shrubs are an old method of preservation, and when done properly, you can enjoy the fruits of summer's labors in the dead of winter. They're used in cocktails in a similar fashion to syrups. The component parts are a subject, a sweetener and vinegar. We'll break down how to do a basic shrub and what the rules are, so that you can break them when you make your own. There's a bit of science involved behind the scenes, and the whole process is based in fermentation, but don't let that shake you. Making a shrub is as easy as discovering penicillin, when you get down to it.
Before spending time in any new place, it always pays to do a little research. This holds especially true if you're going to be staying or living in said new place for a stretch. We left for Ecuador having a decent idea about what to expect when it came to stocking our kitchen, but you … Continue reading SHOPPING IN A FOREIGN COUNTRY
The first post in the A Traveler's Home Bar on a Budget series shows how to utilize cheap, widely available, neutral spirits to create cocktail-worthy infused liquors.